Friday, 31 May 2013

The Express Boat Journey to Marudi

Credits: Mujahidnusantara85.blogspot.com
The year was 2007, the end of exam diseases and the beginning to take off the white-and-light blue school apparel. It was the same year my sister got her most-desirable job. She became a secondary teacher at SMK Marudi. It was very far from Kuching where we had spent most of our life. But living alone without knowing any souls at there would be restless. So, she had decided to brought me together with her, experienced the first journey into the place we never visit before.


December 2007

In every December, the weather climate were so unpredictable. Sometimes, it was very hot but most of the day was cold and gloomy because of our beloved Mr. Rain. So, having a first journey to somewhere on Sarawak's earth would be a bit insecure under those tears. But as always, flight tickets were merciless. I was dragged into my first flight with MAS and enjoyed my throw-up inside the paper bag. To tell you the truth, the colour was so creative. And, it smells so bad that it took me twice to clean my throat.

From Kuching International Airport, we've landed on Miri Airport safely right before afternoon. As far as I can remember, I made a mistake by taking a wrong route and get urinated inside the restroom on the second floor. It was against the rule. I felt so ashamed, but it was my first time. I couldn't think more except doing more embarrassment again and again.

Together with my sister, we took a cab and spend some good time along the road. Then I said to myself, "Owh, so this is Miri. I've always heard about this Oil Town but I never saw it. This is my first time in here. It feels good. You look nice, Miri." It was an hour of self-excitement inside me. And I remembered my first journey to Sibu for 2 months. It was pretty exciting too, but there was a bit of repertoire.

Later on, we both made to the simple place near the river. And I've learned that it was the terminal, the centre of express boat from Miri to Marudi and other places, far inside the mother-earth of deep Sarawak. People called the river as Batang Baram, it was wide and deep and turbid and so unusual in my eyes. My heart was shake, I don't know how much but it thrills me. There were some people waiting with their luggage and talking about the things they missed at their hometown. So I just watching them talking, and sat on my luggage, waiting for the express boat to come. Few minutes later, my sister's colleagues had come by and joined us for the river journey to Baram. 

The Challenging Routes to Marudi

There were different routes that lead to Marudi, the complete small town. To get there, people used to ride the typical express boat- two seats at left and right, quite an airtight, the middle way was narrow, and smaller than an express bus. On top, all big bags were put on and tied together with a sturdy rope.  Express boat's top site is the pleasure space for men to smoke. Some of them were tourists, recording the river moment with their gadgets, knowing that they have 4 hours on board. The weather plays the biggest role.

The other route to Marudi is by using MASWing. I don't know the price but the way more faster than ascending the boat. Besides, it takes an hour only. However, as it is the best solution in a matter of time, the ticket is quite expensive and always 'sold out'. As far as I concern, this transportation is more to a good-paid worker and a well-spend tourist only or for a rush-and-desperate passenger.

Another route to Marudi is by using 4WD transportation through the harsh and rough logging road area or using you own car (4WD is most recommended). It was cheaper than moving on express boat or flying with MASWing but can be very awful even for the slightest rain drop. 

So, the options are so little that people have to accept that the express boat is the best way for them. Not because of its price (actually it's not so cheap than you thought), its condition (the truth-it was uncomfortable) or its time-consumption (it took 4 hours on the river so I don't think it sounds extremely faster). For me, the reason they choose the boat is because the boat is always available and many. What can you expect when you lived in somewhere that have no proper roads or bridges to get in and out? River is the literal answer for them. 

The Experience On Board

I don't remember the exact date. I strongly believed it was December 2007. On that day, the weather was just nice, not so hot and not so grim. I was sitting close to the window as I fully enjoyed the rhythm of machine and water drops. As I closed my eyes, the other senses are activated. I can smell the airtight among us. I can touch the rough chair skin which I believed this boat is younger than it looks- some human's torture within 4 hours in every journey and get a slight dizziness. Then, I can heard the continuous drops, the roaring of water and it cracks the river surface. Some other time, a kid pushing my chair. My head shakes. I thought that I might get up and throw that kid away into the river but of course, it was so unholy wish. On my right there was a married couple with their son. They brought a giant pillow for Christmas. What a family, as I thought but they were very nice couple. I liked them.

4 hours on board was not very nice for my hip and my waist. It was so pain in my ass. Over the first period on board, I ate nasi ayam that my sister bought at the terminal but 4 hours inside the boat couldn't make my day more easier. I was hungry. It was different than airplane that offers foods and drinks while on board. It was different than bus that stop in each terminal so the passenger could buy some snacks or get empty the bladder. Slowly, I opened my eyes and looking at kids who already slept. All mothers look tired. It reminds me how lucky I am living in the middle of Kuching. The only river transportation I ever ride at Kuching is 'perahu tambang' which took me only 5 minutes from Pangkalan to Waterfront.

The second period had passed. The wind slapped the window. River water shakes the floor. Some men go in and out, checking on their family and then they have more smokes on top. I made my eyes open a little, looking at the grooves and swamps, the wetlands and muds, and some big logs that drift along with us. That logs were so big that I began to wonder about bad incidents. But as usual, when I have a bad thought, I intend to slap my own face. So I did it, not so hard but just enough to awake me. Another time passed by, I saw a group of birds flying away, a bunch of crocodiles yawning and sleep with their open jaws, the tree's limb that looks like witch's fingers and the shallow water that it pierced my braveness few times before I realized that it was just a lovely nature. Yup, just a lovely nature.

Then, I didn't know when I went to sleep. It feels nice at the moment. It was not so bad, I thought to myself. Every outsiders are eager to get this experience. Why would I keep scaring myself about this journey? It might be one of my best experience after many years. As the sound of nature sang on us, the slowly chirping and sweet slap on the window, I began to get some joy during this journey.

After few moments, the third period just gone with the wind. I opened my eyes, knowing that my sister is still swimming inside her dreams. I can hear her snore and more sounds from others. Then I peeped over the window and I saw the big old branches, big tall trees and big old floras, which describe the exact Sarawak that shows on TV or newspaper. Oh, this is it, I said. This is the picture that makes Borneo so desirable by nature lovers, hikers and travelers. The water looks mysterious, it feels like it contain some stories- about life and death. I was absorbed into some historic state for some time before I lay my head again and wondering about Marudi.

At the fourth period, people began to awake, that same kid began to earthquake my head again, and all men had stopped smoking. I saw the Western tourists smiled and watching the handycam. It must be quite a great day for him. So do I. It was a great day to remember. Later on, I've heard some people say that the destination is nearby now. They're a local people so of course they know the time. It makes my heart in full speed.

After 4 hours and few minutes I never counted, we arrived safely at Marudi jetty. I saw many people waiting for their family. I saw their smile. I saw their joy. They have returned to their hometown, a safe and a sound journey. Meanwhile, it was my first day here. Marudi, here I come. Please treat me well. I think that it was my first word when I come there.

I lived at Marudi for almost 3 months before I returned to Kuching and get my big result. My sister now work at Kuching. No more journey to Baram. Although I have no pictures to keep but the 'mind-picture' remains alive. I still remember the big green bugs that always fly on top of my head, an extremely weird mantis and grasshoppers, and lived among the green thingie. I've got some refreshment. And it feels so good. I hope one day, this river transportation gets better. No more worries, no more fear and no more death, like the recent Belaga's tragedy.

p/s: Don't accuse them for choosing the cheap transportation. They choose it because the options are limited.

#tmg2013

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